Buying a vintage watch online can be hugely rewarding — but it can also feel daunting, especially for first-time buyers. Unlike modern watches, vintage pieces vary widely in condition, originality, and reliability, and no two examples are exactly the same.
Knowing what to look for before you buy can help you avoid disappointment and choose a watch you’ll genuinely enjoy owning.
Understand That Condition Varies
One of the most important things to remember is that vintage watches are not new watches. Even well-cared-for examples will show signs of age.
Look closely at:
- Dial condition (patina, spotting, fading)
- Case wear (rounding of edges, plating wear)
- Scratches or marks to the crystal
Honest wear is not a flaw — it’s part of the watch’s history. Be wary of listings that describe a 60–80 year old watch as “mint” or “like new”.
Check Whether the Watch Is Running — and What That Really Means
Many listings state that a watch is “running” or “working”, but it’s important to understand what that implies.
A running vintage watch:
- Ticks and operates at the time of listing
- May not keep perfect time
- May not have a full power reserve
- Has usually not been recently serviced
Good sellers will clearly explain what has and hasn’t been tested, and will recommend servicing where appropriate.
Look for Clear Photos (Especially of the Movement)
Clear, well-lit photographs are essential when buying a vintage watch online.
You should expect to see:
- The dial from multiple angles
- Case sides and case back
- The movement (where possible)
- Close-ups of any wear, marks, or defects
If a seller avoids showing the movement or key areas, it’s reasonable to ask why.
Read the Description Carefully
A good listing should tell you:
- The estimated age or era of the watch
- The type of movement (manual, automatic, quartz)
- Case material (solid gold, gold plated, stainless steel, silver)
- Any known faults, damage, or limitations
Vague descriptions or overly optimistic language can be a red flag. Transparency matters more than enthusiasm.
Understand Service History (or the Lack of It)
Unlike modern watches, many vintage watches come with unknown service history. This is normal.
Assume that:
- A service may be needed for reliable long-term use
- Servicing costs should be factored into the purchase price
- Some parts may no longer be readily available
Responsible sellers will be upfront about this and won’t promise unrealistic performance.
Be Wary of Over-Restored Watches
While restoration can sometimes be appropriate, over-restored watches often lose much of their original character and collector appeal.
Things to watch out for:
- Refinished or repainted dials
- Over-polished cases with softened edges
- Incorrect hands or replacement parts
Originality is often more desirable than perfection.
Buy From a Specialist You Trust
Perhaps the most important factor is who you’re buying from.
Look for sellers who:
- Specialise in vintage watches or antiques
- Provide consistent, honest descriptions
- Show multiple examples of similar items
- Encourage questions rather than avoiding them
A knowledgeable seller should help you buy the right watch — not just make a quick sale.
Final Thoughts
Buying a vintage watch online doesn’t need to be intimidating. With realistic expectations, careful reading, and attention to detail, it can be an enjoyable way to own a piece of history.
If you’re ever unsure, ask questions — a good seller will be happy to help. Vintage watches reward patience, curiosity, and informed choices.
Our Approach at Bowles Ltd
At Bowles Ltd, we aim to follow the same principles outlined above in every vintage watch we list.
That means:
- Clear photographs showing condition honestly
- Accurate descriptions without exaggeration
- Realistic expectations around accuracy and servicing
- Transparent notes on what has and hasn’t been tested
We believe buying a vintage watch should feel informed and enjoyable, not uncertain. Whether purchasing from us or elsewhere, these are the standards we encourage buyers to look for.
View the watches we currently have for sale:
Wristwatches Pocket Watches