Buying a vintage watch is about more than just telling the time — it’s about history, craftsmanship, and character. At Bowles Ltd, we believe that preparing a vintage watch properly before listing it is essential, both for transparency and for the confidence of the buyer.
Here’s a look behind the scenes at how we prepare vintage wristwatches and pocket watches before they’re offered for sale.
Careful Initial Assessment
Every vintage watch starts with a thorough visual and mechanical assessment.
We examine:
- The case, dial, hands, and crystal
- The crown, pushers (if fitted), and case back
- Signs of damage, wear, or previous repairs
- Hallmarks, markings, and serial numbers
This stage helps us understand what the watch is, how old it is, and how it has lived its life. Importantly, we’re looking for originality — untouched dials, correct hands, and honest wear are often far more desirable than over-restored examples.
Checking the Movement
Once the external condition is assessed, we inspect the movement.
For mechanical watches, this includes:
- Checking that the watch winds correctly
- Observing whether it runs freely
- Confirming that complications (such as date or sub-seconds) function
- Identifying the calibre where possible
We do not regulate or overhaul movements unless explicitly stated. Instead, we focus on understanding and clearly describing the current running condition. This allows buyers to make informed decisions and avoids presenting a vintage watch as something it isn’t.
Gentle External Cleaning
We carefully clean the exterior of the watch to remove surface dirt and grime built up through years of use.
This may include:
- Light cleaning of the case and case back
- Cleaning around lugs and crown areas
- Careful cleaning of acrylic crystals (without polishing away character)
We do not aggressively polish cases or attempt to make vintage watches look “new”. Over-polishing removes metal and history, and we believe honest patina is part of a watch’s story.
Crystal, Strap & Presentation
Where appropriate:
- Crystals are cleaned and inspected for cracks
- New straps may be fitted to wristwatches for wearability
- Pocket watches are checked for secure hinges and bow integrity
Wristwatches are often supplied with a fresh leather strap, unless originality is key to the piece. Each watch is then presented carefully for photography and listing.
Accurate Measurements & Photography
We take precise measurements, including:
- Case diameter (with and without crown)
- Lug-to-lug length
- Thickness and lug width
High-quality photographs are taken to show:
- Dial condition and patina
- Case wear from all angles
- Movement details
- Any notable marks, defects, or wear
We believe that nothing should be hidden — clear photos reduce surprises and build trust.
Honest Descriptions & Disclaimers
One of the most important parts of our process is the written description.
We aim to:
- Describe condition accurately, not optimistically
- Clearly state what is working and what hasn’t been tested
- Highlight wear, marks, or defects rather than downplay them
- Include realistic expectations for vintage ownership
All vintage watches are listed with a clear disclaimer explaining that:
- Accuracy and power reserve are not guaranteed
- Service history is usually unknown
- Servicing may be required
- The watch is sold as a vintage collectible, not a modern timepiece
This protects both buyer and seller and ensures clarity from the outset.
Why This Matters
Vintage watches are individual, imperfect, and full of character — that’s exactly why people love them. By preparing watches carefully and describing them honestly, we aim to give buyers confidence and avoid unrealistic expectations.
Whether you’re buying your first vintage watch or adding to a long-standing collection, our goal is simple: no surprises, just honest pieces with history.
View the watches we currently have for sale:
Wristwatches Pocket Watches